The Spring / Summer 2021 exhibits were many, many events that happened towards the tail end of last year. While most designers began their quest for an expression of women’s empowerment with the slogan ‘ you do you, ‘ which centralized them.
The Kavanaugh trials, running at the same time as the collections, given the socio-political lens through which the school of fashion saw–and we will easily admit–every display! There have been heated debates. Celine-gate sparked the white-hot discussion over female identity and agency as opposed to the male designers who would define them.
Colour Wheel Tailoring
The suit is a classic wardrobe (a tribute to that is Le Smoking’s seasonal presence at Saint Laurent). It’s always green. Literally, in this situation, with the fresh spin on the fashion of SS19. This is the Starburst suiting period running the gamut as far as color and shape are concerned. Skirts, dresses, pants, and suits come in bold, bright colors that can hit as a complete display as they were at Chanel and Gucci, or be mixed with weaker colors and clothed in denim as they were in the Victoria Beckham and Eid Collection 2021.
Consider the hoodies and athleisure-wear antidote of this SS19. For Spring, all from Raff Simons at Calvin and Marc Jacobs to Miu Miu and Matty Bovan, fine tulle, ruffles, balloon tops, bubble tops, swirls of taffeta, and duchess satin, sunray plates, and personality-packed volume clothes created a case for appreciating couture dressmaking and design abilities. The Valentino opera got a standing ovation with its encompassing fabulousness of form and reflected the trend in its apotheosis.
Over the past year, we’ve witnessed a 90s resurgence in many respects, with slip Pakistani clothes, satin skirts, fluffy clothing, yes, even frosted lip glasses that make it home. But until now, we still have to see this one 90s trope striding down the roads. Back in the shape of Erdem’s satin shoes and apartments, providing Regency vibes, and in the shape of Cavalli’s elevated heeled shoes, the pointed toe has a renaissance.
Sweet Valley High
Nostalgia is nothing fresh, but it is this return to broadcast television in the early 1990s. This is Bel-Air style Fresh Prince (no, that’s not Ashley, with Louis Vuitton’s boxy blazer, XL lapels, and challenging designs). Return to the word art and swirling graphics of Saved By The Bell and Clarissa’s opening credits Explains It All –but on Balenciaga and Versace shirts and skirts.
With the Neo Boho trend of the season, designers took an escapist twist. The look is long, lingering, and sensual, saturated in Chloé and Loewe’s hot desert and sunset shades, or challenging carpet and tile paintings like Paco Rabanne and Philip Lim. You will see amulet jewelry, crochet parts, and raffia accessories with this trend, an ode to souvenirs taken upon pilgrimages to Ibiza, Joshua Tree, or an ashram in India.
Low Key Utility
Virgil Abloh introduced the concept of’ access morphosis’ at his debut Louis Vuitton menswear show in June: transforming bags and wallets into clothing. Everyone from Chanel to Proenza Schouler has made a riff on this theme this season, with Fendi’s boxy vehicle jackets depicting patch pockets marked’ Keys, Coins, and Phone.’ Proof that feminism in the fourth wave can bring designers down unpredictable paths, the idea behind this trend is, probably, if you need to multi-task, so should your garments.